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 Post subject: Help identifying this chain split link....
PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 11:48 am 
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80 cc
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Its been recommended to me that I may want to consider a new chain split link, or at least carry a spare. Here is a photo of mine, can anyone show their technical prowess by recognising it from the photo to help me source a spare?

I've never purchase (or fitted) a new chain for a bike. My VFR800Fi has a Scottoiler and the chain has lasted years and years!

Its on a 2005 Honda CRF25OX

Cheers

Image


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 Post subject: Re: Help identifying this chain split link....
PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 12:38 pm 
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650 cc Monster

Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2010 12:54 pm
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Location: Poynton
I understand most trail bikes have a 520 chain, but it should tell you in the bikes hand book.
Personally having had problems with split links on my DRZ I would recommend getting a soft link and riveting it, but if not always carry a spare and make certain it will go together easily, possibly need to open out the holes and if you don't have a means of clamping forget the O-rings and fit these when you get home using the second spare link, the one you used on the trail is then your spare again.

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2001 DRZ 400E - 2010 to 2012
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 Post subject: Help identifying this chain split link....
PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 2:44 pm 
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200 cc

Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2011 11:10 am
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Mmmmmm. Can't see any identification on the links. It looks like an Oring chain....

The 2 most popular are a 520 renthal or a 520 DID. Probably best to buy 1 of each (around £4.50) and see which is a perfect fit. Local motorbike shop should carry both in stock.


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 Post subject: Re: Help identifying this chain split link....
PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 5:55 pm 
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Wipe all the grease of the side of chain first.
It should be stamped on the side.

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 Post subject: Re: Help identifying this chain split link....
PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 6:29 pm 
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650 cc Monster
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Joined: Fri Dec 07, 2012 2:22 pm
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Location: Romiley
Greetings,

To clean a chain I would suggest that you either purchase; a proprietary chain cleaner; use a general degreasing cleaner something like Jizer or some diesel. I prefer diesel as it does not give off a lot of fumes and generally helps as a lubricant. DO NOT USE PETROL :twisted:

Wear protective glasses so that fluid and dirt do not flick into your eyes. I prefer to remove the chain for cleaning, let it soak for a little while in the chosen fluid, which can be poured into in a plastic container such as a washing up bowl or an oil container with a side cut out. There are special brushes for scrubbing the links but an old tooth brush works just fine too.

Dry the chain off with a non fluffy rag and then you can inspect it for wear or damage. Apart from physical damage the inner pins and bushes wear so that the overall length over a set number of pins becomes greater, this is often called "stretch" but trust me chains do not stretch they only wear :shock:

There are a number of specialist chain spray lubricants, they have a searching action which means that they can seek their way into the smallest gap between roller and pin plus they lubricate the sealing rubber rings which are either 'O' or 'X' shaped. Some dry leaving a 'white pasty' look either way they are very sticky which resists the grease being thrown off when the bike is in motion. If just lubing then spray onto the inside of the chain run so that the lube spreads outwards as you turn the rear wheel.

Chains are identified by a three number code, e.g. 520. Although we are now used to the metric measuring system chains are still actually measured according to the old imperial measurement of parts of an inch. We count the distance as a number of 1/8 of an inch increments.

First off we measure the pitch, which is the distance between the centre of two adjacent pins, so count the number of 1/8 units, probably there will be; 4 = 1/2" or 5 = 5/8" This provides the first of those three numbers

Next we measure the narrowest part between the two innermost side plates but this is based around 1/16" of an inch increments, so count the number of 1/16 units, probably there will be; 3 = 3/16"; 4 = 1/4"; 5 = 5/16"

code pitch width code pitch width
415 1/2" 3/16" 520 5/8" 1/4"
420 1/2" 1/4" 525 5/8" 5/16"
425 1/2" 5/16" 530 5/8" 3/8"

Check your sprockets for manufacturer's marking as they are often impressed into the outer face, here is a photo of one off my Beta Alp;

Attachment:
renthal chainwheel.jpg
renthal chainwheel.jpg [ 336.63 KiB | Viewed 3894 times ]


Take a look also at the short information on the Renthal website; http://www.renthal.com/shop/support/tec ... chainwheel

Carry a short length of old chain and two split links for any emergency repair out on a lane. As to wether you use a split or rivet link depends upon your own preference and operating conditions.

Hope that lot helps.

TTFN

Hugh.

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Please note that I am not a National TRF Officer, any views expressed are my own and may not be in accordance with any official policy.


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 Post subject: Re: Help identifying this chain split link....
PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 7:15 pm 
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650 cc Monster
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Location: East Sussex
That's far to detailed and informative for most of us. :D

I use paraffin to clean it and it seems to work ok but I've always taken the non lube option so the Sussex mud and grit doesn't stick to it.
I can get best part of two years out of a chain so am happy with that. I just treat it as a consumable.

They tend to give up sideways before the stretch gets too much.
Cue Dan Birch. Couple of weeks ago. His chain nearly met the footrest and he hadn't even taken the link out :shock:

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 Post subject: Re: Help identifying this chain split link....
PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 7:57 pm 
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Just a quick wipe on one link with a rag,is all I was suggesting. :o

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 Post subject: Re: Help identifying this chain split link....
PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 10:15 pm 
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Thanks everyone - very interesting!

I use one of these to clean my chain after each ride - though I admit it doesn't look great in the photo!
http://www.bikeittrade.com/360-degree-c ... tirox.html

I started using brake cleaner but I read it can be bad for the O-Rings so I now use what I hope is a gentle detergent that is actually an acid free wheel cleaner....I've never felt keen enough to remove the chain to clean it, but I can imagine how this would be effective.

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/valet-pro ... d_499.html

Seems to work well, but I may buy a dedicated product like the Tirox cleaner,

I re-oil the chain with Putoline DX11

I did try and have a look with a torch on the side of the chain, will give it another wipe and have another look.

I think this looks suspiciously like it...
http://www.24mx.co.uk/renthal-split-link


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 Post subject: Re: Help identifying this chain split link....
PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 10:32 pm 
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650 cc Monster

Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2012 7:31 pm
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Oring chain, soft link, WD40...after a wash....don't sweat it... Good idea to get THE split link that fits when you get a new chain as an emergent measure, but rivets don't seem to go...I use an EK 520 oring chain from Hunters in Newcastle, £70 all in for chain and sprockets... And they been fine...all split links seem to be slightly different... But you may get lucky...


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