TRF Forums

Drill the bolt out completely and fit a helicoil. The helicoil will give you a solid thread in the alloy casing and it work great.

If you can't rescue the thread, I think you're better off with a Timesert than a Helicoil in this case. Helicoils apparently have a habit of unscrewing with the bolt but the Timeserts shouldn't.

Not teaching you to suck eggs, but. If you do have a go at drilling the bolt out, make sure you remove the filter and stuff plenty of paper towal or old rag in the filter housing. The last thing you want is loads of swarf in there.
Should be a simple job with the bike laid on it's side.

I wouldn't use an eez-out if I were you.

They are tapered and expand the bolt as you screw them in, wedging it ever tighter in. They can even crack the crankcase around the bolt. And god help you if it bottoms out against the crankcase

Often just drilling the bolt will loosen it sufficiently to withdraw. Use the bolt that did come out as a guide as to how far to drill. As an alternative, find an allen key that is an interference fit with the hole you have drilled and gently tap it in.

Iv had a few different suggestions so going to give it a go tomorrow with this..........

http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsess ... lt+remover

I will update you all if any good!! Cant believe I even did this in the 1st place

Thanks for putting up the pics scotsy much appreciated

Those look like they are effectively short easy-outs, so they are unlikely to break off, but are also less likely to get a solid grip on the bolt itself. I tried to use something similar on a sheared-off sidestand bolt and got nowhere, but when I drilled it I actually managed to twist the bolt out the back of the hole - you haven't got the advantage of a gap at the back, which is why I was recommending the LH drillbit.

Try heating the area around the bolt with a hot air gun before trying, and give the bolt itself a few taps with a punch before you start, both of which should loosen up the threads.

I do still think that you would be better drilling the bolt (left or right handed drillbit) and then trying to unscrew it using an allen key or torx key before you try stud extractors.

Thanks for the advice, I have just been and got a LH drill bit to try this also. Iv borrowed my mates hot air gun too so fingers crossed it will be out tonight...

My experience of using a stud extractors have never been successful. First time the extractor sheared and the only solution was spark erosion and a helicoil. All other occasions have just failed to remove the stud maybe because I did not want to exert too great a torque and risk shearing another extractor.
If you do use a stud extractor then use a tap wrench to turn it so as to keep the extractor straight.
What I have found works is to drill the centre of the stud out and then use a chisel or drift (or screwdriver) and tap it around once movement has started this method normally finishes the job fairly easily.
Something else that does work if you have the space and some thread sticking above the face is to weld another bolt to what is left of the stud, although I would be very careful with an alloy housing.
After removing the stud I would suggest you run a finishing tap down the hole or drill out and use a helicoil if the thread has been damaged, just putting a new bolt in using copper slip only has at best a 50/50 chance of it not happening again.

Good Luck

No luck ppl neither the trend or left hand drill bit worked, now made this 10 times worse and to top it off there's a tiny drill bit snapped and stuck inside!!! I'm going to have to take this to a pro!! Anyone recommend anyone in south yorkshire to look at this for me??

Drat, that's not what we were hoping to hear

Try contacting KevInYorks who is a regular poster on KTMForum, or Nick at Endurotek and see what they recommend.