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 Post subject: Help using garmin montana
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 7:57 pm 
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Hi all me again , I had my garmin Montana 600 delivered today , nice piece of kit but confusing to use , I have managed to get a gpx route loaded onto it but after 3 hours messing about I don't feel I'm getting the best out of it . When I open the route in base camp if I change the mode from driving to say motorcycling the whole route changes and shows lots more tracks in motorcycling .
Does anyone live local to Lutterworth that could give me a bit of a tutorial so I'm getting the best out of it .
It's a lot of money to spend and not fully understand . Little simple things like how to delete part of the gpx that isn't needed etc and how to navigate to the start of a route .

Hope someone can help as I'm a bit of a technophobe it seems


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 Post subject: Re: Help using garmin montana
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:11 pm 
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You need to change your route into a "track".
As a route can only handle 50 way points,and therefore changes the appearence of the route you just created.
If you follow a track on the gps screen you get a little arrow guiding the way.

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 Post subject: Re: Help using garmin montana
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 11:13 pm 
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It's driving me mad !!!
I have downloaded the gpx into base camp as a track and sent it to the device , it shows as a full track on base camp but only shows some of the route on the Montana .
Not very user friendly at all


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 Post subject: Re: Help using garmin montana
PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 6:59 am 
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Do you have loads of blue arrows all over the track showing on the Montana ?

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 Post subject: Re: Help using garmin montana
PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 9:44 am 
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2fattoofalloff wrote:
It's driving me mad !!!
I have downloaded the gpx into base camp as a track and sent it to the device , it shows as a full track on base camp but only shows some of the route on the Montana .
Not very user friendly at all


You should be sending the TRACK on basecamp as a TRACK to the Montana.
You say it is showing as a ROUTE on the Montana which will only show part of the route as one of the downsides of this device is that it only supports a few waypoints. Send as a track and it should show all the track on the Montana

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 Post subject: Re: Help using garmin montana
PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 10:07 am 
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Yes I've sent them as a user track but it's still not all showing .


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 Post subject: Re: Help using garmin montana
PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 10:49 am 
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if you get really stuck with it. I'll buy it :D


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 Post subject: Re: Help using garmin montana
PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 12:55 pm 
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I did a bit of a teach in a couple of months ago at my local meeting.

I tried attaching the notes I made - but would not - so pasted it in the body of text - see following

Images have not copied and pasted.

Stick with Basecamp it - its worth it.

Its all totally confusing, then one day you will have an Eureeka moment & it will all make sense.

Then - go back & re-try the tutorials & they work & are very helpful.


When using the software to plan rides, its much easier to understand Basecamp & Garmin if you study the OS paper maps & cross reference where you have previously ridden or intend to ride.
Creating TRACKS from scratch is a lot easier if you have a basic understanding of where to go, what’s legal & the various OS symbols.
Its preferable to do the learning away from the lanes. I have practiced creating tracks & tested on dog walks, in the car, on my push bike etc.
Anyone can download the Basecamp software for free – but it’s only useful when you have connected a registered device.
That’s the only way to activate OS maps.
I only ever use TRACKS for trail riding on the lanes – even for the bits of roads that join the individual trails up –all done on same TRACK.
ROUTES are only good for “normal” sat nav uses – using normal roads or in the car.
If you use ROUTES on trails – it will select random path (mainly on actual roads) that is a nightmare to edit – don’t bother

Depending on which FOLDER is selected – only certain tracks are shown.
Until a device is connected - no minor roads or OS detail is accessible.
Tracks are edited & saved with different colours to make them separate on the screen.

• On the Garmin device – only the single TRACK you have selected is visible at any one time.
A TRACK is just a series of plots with co-ordinates that form a line on the screen that you can follow.
Either manually done with Basecamp or automatically done when the device is switched on.
Whenever you are using your Montana – it’s always automatically saving a new version of the TRACK you are actually riding.
Good for following someone on a new ride out – can be saved, re-named, copied edited etc in Base camp.
When following a TRACK - It won’t change or give you guidance if you wander off – you have to ride back onto the “line”.
In Base camp – TRACKS can have different colours (because more than one is on the screen at any one time) – but on the SAT NAV unit – they all appear as Purple (unless someone can tell me how to change it)

A ROUTE is using the sat nav to give guidance (like in the car), and will change if you wander off.
If you deviate from the initial guidance it gives, it will re-calculate & advise a new ROUTE to take.


You can create a TRACK or a ROUTE using base camp – both have uses.
You can convert a TRACK into a ROUTE in base camp & vice versa.

Use the tutorials – they do help (especially after a bit of practice in Basecamp & you start to understand what is going on)

File managing - Only in basecamp – not on the Sat Nav
Basically same as WORD, EXCEL etc.
Folders can be created for areas – Northumberland, Teesside, Road bike, Europe etc.
When clicking on a FOLDER – only those tracks & routes within that folder become visible on the screen.

Files – within Folders - Only in basecamp – not on the Sat Nav
Same as WORD, EXCEL etc.
Can be copied, duplicated, re-named, cut, etc
If I am planning a variation of an existing TRACK (perhaps because of seasonal TRO) - I always copy an existing TRACK in that area and use the new version to chop & change etc – then re-name it. That means the original is always there.
When I am riding in a certain area (eg Yorkshire) – I normally only have these files downloaded into my sat nav unit – to save searching through loads of tracks that are not useful. Other TRACKS will be transferred from the Sat Nav back into Basecamp.
This means that if I lose my Sat Nav unit or the files get corrupted – most of my saved files are safe on my PC.

Editing
Available from Tool bar is options to create, modify, zoom, cut, divide TRACKS & ROUTES.

I use the following icons for 99% of things.
• The hand - to pan the image about on screen.
• The magnifying glass - to zoom by creating a window of the area I want to look at.
• Ruler - to measure between selected points
• Insert - to add a lane or road section when editing a TRACK
• Move - to ensure all points are actually on the TRACK (especially after “INSERT used)
• Rubber - to delete spare points (from editing TRACKS)
• Scissors - to chop up TRACKS and then use the JOIN function to create new TRACKS
Click the icon once to start using it – but remember to click it again to make it stop working after completing the edit.

Creating Tracks – with Basecamp.
As mentioned – a TRACK is just a series of plots (co-ordinates) joined together with a line.
Ideal for trail riding over fields & moors because the sat nav is not trying to use data from a road network which causes all sorts of problems with deviations (as with ROUTES).
You can either :-
1. Copy & edit and rename existing TRACK or
2. Create a new TRACK from scratch.
In Basecamp - to create a new track from scratch – do your homework first. Be sure where you want to go is legal, check OS maps, up-to-date TRO`s, guidance from Right of Way members within TRF.
Select a location for the new TRACK to be stored - either :-
• Existing folder / file in your PC (could be a new one or a new file in an existing folder)
• Internal storage in your device.
Zoom in on the area you want to start the ride, then to start the TRACK, click on the footprint icon in the toolbar.

Select the START location, then just click along the roads, lanes etc, until you have made a full days ride.
If you make a mistake – click on Edit - “undo” at the top of the screen to back track.
When complete - zoom in all the “technical” bits – then use the “move” icon to get the individual plots of the TRACK accurate – especially at the start & end of lanes and also where you need to avoid certain features.
Use the “insert” icon to add more plots for accuracy – especially on junctions & entrances to lanes.
Re-name it so it can be found easily.
If its on your PC – transfer to the device then disconnect the device from the PC to see if its actually there (too late to see there has been a problem when on the lane).

Joining tracks
• Zoom in on the ends of the 2 tracks that you want to join.
• Both TRACKS need to be “highlighted” on the screen to Join them.
• In the TRACK listing – on left side of screen :-
• Click on the 1st TRACK (this will highlight 1st TRACK to join on screen)
• Holding the CONTROL button down on the keyboard
• Click on the 2nd TRACK (this will highlight 2nd TRACK to join on screen)
• Ensure the CURSOR is over the TRACK listing (on left side of screen)
• Right click on mouse
• Scroll down to “JOIN THE SELECTED TRACKS” – following pop-up box appears.


Click on “OK”

If it joins up with red dotted line and is wrong –needs to be reversed.

Click on one of the TRACKS – the “Right click” with mouse – above message appears.
Scroll down to “Invert Selected Track” – to change its direction.
Then go through the first procedure to JOIN TRACKS & hopefully the correct ends should join.

It also gives you the option to delete 2 original tracks.
You can re-name the new track as a complete ride.

With TRACKS – its handy to create a new track from known good sections of trails. Use the divide tool to create smaller sections of TRACKS that can be joined up to create a new TRACK – save with new name.
Hint 1 – Once the TRACKS have joined - you may have to use the “insert” tool to create new bits of road section to join the bits of good bits TRACK together.
Hint 2 – sometimes the selected tracks wont join – ensure they are orientated correctly – the software does not like it if one of the tracks is travelling in the opposite direction. Reverse one of them & re-try.
Hint 3 - Be careful which ends of the tracks actually join up – it may be the opposite free ends to those which you intended.
Hint 4 – if the joining process forms a complete loop – use the divide tool to create a new “open end”, then delete the section of unwanted link.

Down loading & e-mailing – GPX files
Handy if a few of you are out – then each can take the lead. Also back sweeper should not get lost.

TRACKS & ROUTES are in a format called GPX – it is used by almost all devices – including Garmins.
• Create a folder in your PC and then take a “copy” of the GPX file from the e-mail (or memory stick).
• I have a specific folders just for these files in my PC – in the H-drive (because its at work).
• Then “paste” the GPX file in this new folder.
• Then plug your Garmin into the PC - Get Base camp up on the screen as well.
• Then right click on the bottom left icon on the screen – “Start”
• Open Windows Explorer
• Open your folder in your PC where you saved the GPX file - right click on it & “copy”.
• Sometimes if its not named as it was sent - check the dates & select the newest file.
• Then double click on the Garmin drive (its F drive on my PC)
• Then Double click on Garmin folder that appears.
• Double click on the folder called “GPX” – to open it.
• Then right click & “paste” when the cursor is over the list of GPX files on show.
• The route that was sent you should now be in your Garmin device as well as your PC.
• Next, on Basecamp – click on “Internal Storage” and you should see the route as a route to select.
• See if you can open it in Base camp - See if you can see it in OS detail.

Importing Maps – Saves buying software from Garmin.
With the Montana, there is the option to scan / photo copy a paper map & import that into the basecamp software (saves buying it from Garmin)

Its not as good as the proper thing - but is OK, better than spending loads of money on an area you wont be using much.

I tried this when I went to the Isle of Man, I did not have those in OS on Basecamp, but I did have a paper copy.

The accuracy depends on how careful you are when selotaping the parts of the map together before its scanned.
Then you have to "over-lay" the Garmin image (without OS) over the scanned image of your maps & save the "layered" image so it appears as a normal OS map in the Garmin.

As above - you have to be careful to get it spot on - any distortion in the paper maps, selotaped joints, scanned images & it loses accuracy.

Ideal for small areas - a struggle for places as big as the IoM.

You don’t have the option to change detail of roads / lanes – as its just an image of the paper map.

The following is the image of how I did it – you can see how I merged the paper maps over the Garmin and had to rotate and stagger them to align.

It was OK & easily possible to follow pre-planned trails.

It was easy to see on Basecamp & OK to plan TRACKS for the bike.

Battery or Power Supply ?
• To stop the Garmin from switching itself off during a ride – put a foam ear plug or similar under the cover to wedge the battery in place.
• Spare conventional batteries can be used if the Garmin Battery goes flat.

The internal “chargeable” battery should last for a full days ride if :-
• The background light is selected to dim.
• The time it stays bright after each time is activated (touch the screen etc) is less time.

If you have a cradle & power supply :-
• The battery is constantly being charged
• The background light is on permanent “bright” – easy to see detail at any time.
• Use a switched supply with a permanent fused live. This stops the Garmin going off every time you stop the engine


Using TRACKS on the sat nav.
To access an existing TRACK or one that you have just downloaded from Basecamp or an e-mail (via your PC) :-

• You need to be near the actual start point to see the “START POINT”
• From the 1st screen, scroll down – click on “Track Manager”
• Select “TRACK” to follow
• “View Map” (should bring up the whole of the ride on the screen)
• “GO” – you need to be near the actual start point to see the “START POINT”


Way-Points.
This is a whole new way of plotting and planning that is available but I have not got round to learning yet.

Routes
A whole new topic for planning journeys – mainly used for road work


Profiles – on Sat Nav Unit.
From the “PROFILE CHANGE” icon on the Garmin device – Scroll down and select :-
• “MOTORCYCLE” for trail rides
• “AUTOMOTIVE” for using it as a conventional sat nav unit.
• Loads of others – I don’t use them


Settings :-
My preferences are :-
Display :-
• Background light (when not connected to a power source) – 15 seconds.
• Screen Capture – Off
• Orientation Lock – Lock Landscape
Maps :-
• Orientation – Track Up (rather than North up)
• Dashboard – None
• Map Speed – Fast
• Guidance TEXT – When Navigating
• Map Information – Select Map
Tracks :-
• Track Log – Record, Do Not Show
• Interval –Less Often
• Colour – your choice
• Record Method – Auto
• Auto Archive – When Full


• I have found most of the above from various sources, but mainly by constant trial and error.
• Loads of help on the internet forums etc.
• Its not a replacement for actual maps – but very handy.
• Maps are much more useful when showing a group the intended whole days ride.
• Maps are more helpful when explaining to a member of your group locations etc if he wants to go home early.
• The screen is very small in comparison to a map.
• There are helpful web sites & forums – but some are far too geeky
• This is only a small percentage of what a Garmin Montana and Basecamp can do.
• It can become very addictive.
• With a different SD card - Its ideal for planning Euro-Tours, (City Navigator) for checking on locations of hotels, petrol stations on route etc.


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 Post subject: Re: Help using garmin montana
PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 2:57 pm 
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WOW that's excellent , I think I've Sussed it now , it appears the gpx file I was importing was corrupt but a friend sent me some more files and they have loaded up fine . So all I need to do now is mess around and figure out how to set my start and finish points on said tracks .
Thanks all again


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 Post subject: Re: Help using garmin montana
PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 6:20 pm 
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Set up two profiles on it.
One for trail riding,and one for car use.
You can then adjust the settings for both types of use.
It will all make sense once you start using it.

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