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 Post subject: Smokinrider's technical and mechanical tips
PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 1:48 pm 
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300 cc
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I'm gonna post some tips that some people may find useful, as and when I do any work on my bike.
No real need for any comments please, unless you think that there is a better way. Feel free to PM me if you need any advise or have any questions.

Gonna start with the front end, so here's a clip for removing head race bearing,
1) buy the right tool
2) Always use heat to expand the metals
3)chill or warm (depending on where they're going) new bearings.

4)strip and regressed regularly to avoid them looking like the photos (taken after 1 year of being in and never being regressed or cleaned.)

5) don't jetwash directly into bearings or seals.

https://youtu.be/MKnuVqDmbnI



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Last edited by smokinrider on Fri Dec 02, 2016 1:58 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Smokinrider's technical and mechanical tips
PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 1:52 pm 
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300 cc
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Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 7:07 pm
Posts: 558
Clean your forks dust and oil seals frequently to prevent stansion wear and blown seals.
Air should be bled from modern forks before every ride and ideally once the forks have done some work during the ride.

Fit easy bleeders and when ratcheting the bike down in a trailer or in a van bleed the air so the seals don't have too much pressure on them. Bleed air back in once the bike is off the trailer or out of the van.

The crud which came out of the seals in the video was twice as much as shown and this is after 2 months riding following a complete fork rebuild.

Never directly jet wash into fork seals


https://youtu.be/z8VupjzB90E


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 Post subject: Re: Smokinrider's technical and mechanical tips
PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 2:09 pm 
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650 cc Monster

Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2012 7:31 pm
Posts: 3512
Great to see you working with a 'fag on'...old school! keep up the good work,and yup,them seal cleaners are ace,saved me from a suspected 'seal job' about a year ago...still fine....and...top soundtrack,I await your next vid...cheers.


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 Post subject: Re: Smokinrider's technical and mechanical tips
PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 2:32 pm 
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300 cc
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Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 7:07 pm
Posts: 558
Take a picture of wiring and pipes so you remember which way they came apart,

Make sure your clutch and brake lines are routed correctly before torquing up fork clamps and refitting the wheel!!!!!ImageImage


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 Post subject: Smokinrider's technical and mechanical tips
PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 2:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 7:07 pm
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Using mousses? Struggling to fit them? Use the right tool for the job. Endurotyres supplied Rabaconda mousse changer.

Worth the investment or split the cost between mates/group if you're all using mousses. Makes tube changes a breeze as well.

Not quite 3 minutes mins but no bruised or scraped knuckles and no rags lost!

https://youtu.be/DxOQl-912bo


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 Post subject: Re: Smokinrider's technical and mechanical tips
PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2016 1:54 am 
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300 cc
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Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 7:07 pm
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I like the ones I use.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Pair-of-g ... SwFNZWvbUB


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 Post subject: Smokinrider's technical and mechanical tips
PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2016 6:47 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 7:07 pm
Posts: 558
Nights are drawing in and most bike have pants lights. If you're able to fit some to the bike you can go for these bad boys. Pics are standard v spots.


ImageImageImage


Don't fancy bolting anything to the bike then go for the helmet option. Pics are off and on.

ImageImage
ImageImage


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 Post subject: Smokinrider's technical and mechanical tips
PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2016 1:28 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 7:07 pm
Posts: 558
Let's talk chains, sprockets and gearing. I've posted this elsewhere but will copy it here as well.

This info is my opinion/findings based on most ktm/new husqvarna models.

It's always best to get it set up what you think you want gearing wise with a 13 on the front. 13/50 is probably standard enduro gearing But TBH you probably wouldn't notice 1 tooth on the rear either way trailriding.

With a 13 on the front, if you need to do a lot of road work a quick swap to a 14 tooth front, spin the rear axle blocks through 180 degrees and your good to go with higher gearing, no need to readjust the chain as the axle blocks rotate to be worth 1 tooth or 1/2 a link of chain length.

+1 tooth front = -3 teeth off the rear. And -1 front = +3 rear. Approximately.

Smaller front or larger rear give snappier acceleration but at the expense of outright speed or lower revs cruising speed.

Bigger front or smaller rear gives more top speed but faster speed in 1st on tick over.

13 tooth front gives more clearance between sprocket and clutch slave cylinder. Handy if it's gonna be clogged up with mud or bog!

make sure your chain length is capable of taking the extra tooth on the front if you're going to want to use the 13/14 interchangeable front sprocket option.
Be aware that some rear sprocket combinations used for the 13/14 combo (usually 47,49,51 and 53 rears) will leave you with too little chain adjustment when using the 13f and taking a link out of the chain will then brings wheel too close to the shock mudflap when using the 14f, especially with AC10s and other MX tyres. (One full chain link = 2 sprocket teeth)

Going too big on the rear sprocket may also foul the chain guide.

When using AC10s or Similar legal mx tyres they will have the effect of raising the gearing till they wear down a bit as their overall diameter/circumference is bigger when new. (Usually they are a 120 carcas but the bigger nobbles give it the overall size of a 140 width, they also have 3mm or so taller blocks)

Ktms are notorious for chain slap. Don't compensate for this by over tightening it. It's caused by worn out guides. Over tighten the chain and it will break sooner or later or wear the output shaft bearing.

In an ideal world you should adjust your chain with the shock off and the swing arm straight with the output shaft, swing arm bolt and wheel axle in a dead straight line!
If not then make sure your on the money as per the manual. I've got an old sprocket cut down to 53mm which I slide under the chain to gauge the slack, you could use a socket with that size OD or just measure it with a tape or ruler. Make sure the bike is in neutral and the bottom of the chain is tight. Make sure the adjusters are even or the wheel will be slanted and the chain won't run true. I don't trust the silly little marks so I use digital calipers to measure the gap between the adjuster and the swing arm.

Don't use cheap or non oring/xring chains, ever! Engine cases are very expensive!

Use the correct DID x ring slim/thin chain. All other chains are a mm or so wider and will wear out your split link as they go through the chain guide, potentially causing the chain to break.
On that point check the split link every ride. Mine get replaced as soon as the clip starts looking sharp. Reckon 3 split links are used over the life of a chain. When fitting a split link make sure you don't over compress it.
You can either measure it and squeeze it so it's the same width as other links or using a cheapo chain splitter to back the plate off so it's tight against the spring clip. You don't really want the spring clip to be able to rattle.

Coming soon, replacing 8000 mile old front wheel bearings!


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 Post subject: Smokinrider's technical and mechanical tips
PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 12:36 pm 
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Posts: 558
So if you havent done your Christmas list then a decent bumbag could be something to consider.

Here is a brief list of what I ALWAYS carry on the trail or on Rallies.

The bag is an OGIO one and was from Husqvarna for about £40. It has 2 side pockets (one with waterproof bag liner) one front pocket and a main compartment with spanner loops and zipable net pocket. The zips need a bit of WD40/TLC from time to time, as they clog with mud but other than that its a fairly sturdy bag that carries quite a lot. I wouldn't expect it to last 2 years if it gets a lot of use but if its occasional trail riding you do, it should last years and years.

I don't carry tools or spares for others, so all the tools listed are for my bike but they would fit any other KTM or Husqvarna.

Spares carried:
2x 100ml shot bottles of 2/ oil (enough for 10 litres or about 75 miles)
2 x ring split links for my chain. and a couple of links. (usually there is also another one for an Oring chain as well)
A new bagged and oiled air filter. (kept in the waterproof side pocket of the bumbag)
New or known good Spark Plug,
New throttle cable,
New fuel pipe,
A selection of nuts, bolts and screws, a few pieces of wire and some insulation tape, (including brake pad pins and lever pivot bolts)
A selection of cable ties (various lengths and sizes)
10-15metres of Para Cord. (Although thin this stuff has a huge braking strain so can be used for towing)
Spare circlip to hold the front sprocket on,
Neoprene gloves.
Few bits of rag,
Spare Brake and clutch lever and caliper/brake pad pins (you stand a chance of finding your pads when they fall out but not the pins!)

Tools carried:
Standard Husky/KTM tool roll (includes most of what you'll need)
Selection of stumpy combination spanners to undo all nuts and bolts (with the only exception of the swing arm)
Chain splitter
Pliers and circlip pliers
Selection of Allen Keys for all Allen bolts on the bike (including the small one that hold the carb top on!)
Small screwdriver and screw driver bits
Small mole grips. (handy when used with a m6 nut to push a split link plate on)
Open ended and cut down spanner for the spark Plug. (drilled to lighten it)

I don't carry tyre levers, spare tubes, pump, puncture repair kit or anything for the wheels as I use mousses. (the only guaranteed way NEVER to get a flat tyre, A debate on legality of mousses and or the advantages of TUBLISS is not necessary here! its been covered elsewhere and is a matter of preference)

Whenever I work on the bike at home I always use these tools from the bum bag. that way I:
1) know I'm carrying the right tools needed,
2) I know I haven't lost anything.
3) Familiarity means you always know where things are and don't have to open unnecessary pockets to find what you want.

In my rucksack I would also usually have my waterproofs. My camelback, a spare pair of gloves and some winter road gloves if its that time of year. something to eat, a waterproof dry bag with phone, smokes, lighter and house keys etc. (if it was to fall out I shouldn't have any trouble finding it as its bright orange!)

I may also carry a selection of maps and a spare battery for my Garmin and camera.

As is say, this is what I carry. I always work on the principle of carry everything and then hopefully you'll never need any of it.ImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImage


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 Post subject: Re: Smokinrider's technical and mechanical tips
PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2016 2:10 pm 
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300 cc

Joined: Sat May 16, 2009 11:38 pm
Posts: 512
I'm also a big fan of the Wolfman tank bag.
Mine's about 8 years old and looks a bit shabby now, but it is very well made.
All the zips, stitching and buckles are still fine.

It was expensive but has proved to be good value.

Steve


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