TRF Forums

A tale of two chains . . . .

The guessing game;

One of the chains in the pictures has done 1867 miles, taking nearly 97 hours.
The other chain has done 436 miles, taking 23 hours.
Yeah, I know, I do wear an anorak )

Same bike, same rider, similar conditions, similar lubricating (or not!) regime.
To be fair, the chain with more miles on has had exposure to worse conditions . . . .

So which one's which?

That's right, the top one is the one with the least miles.
It does have 2 more links than the bottom one, but it is now effectively 3 links longer - it has stretched that much.

Top one, RK.
Bottom one, Regina.

If it hadn't been lying on my garage floor for 7 months, I could put the Regina back on.

Needless to say, a new Regina chain has now been put on - the cost difference between the RK and the Regina isn't that much, and for my money, the Regina is a better chain - I don't need to adjust it as much and it lasts longer.

Mike

Chain reaction - if 'twere me I'd put them on my bike and replace either with the other as required.

There again, my Dad was a Tyke and my Mum was Scottish so I have short arms and deep pockets.
Martyn

Hmm...
Warning, laid up with post foot op rest so long post...

Don't think there is any "standard" approach...

I now tend to run x ring HD chains on both the 250 2T and 525 4 Stroke.

I use the 250 for fun days that will use 2+ tanks of fuel..
I use the 525 for trail riding when not on medical post op rest

The 250 when used for trail riding would do about 5 outings locally per week between 80-200 miles per trip and occasional enduros and fun days...

The 525 took over as a trail bike and has now completed 34678 miles of mixed use going out for short local trail rides and 2-3 days trips further away.. It is simply too heavy and meaty for an enjoyable Enduro tool for me..the last Enduro meant that I had to drop it on a down hill leaf clutter wooded slop eand drag it down for 11 laps as it simply would not turn and handled like a supertanker going straight on into a barbed wire fence at tight turn half way down..
But it is so far the best trail bike and most reliable bike I've had..happy to ride from 8am to 8pm trail riding...

Both bikes have the same chain maintenance schedule.

Before a ride after previous "ready" prep the chain gets a good spray with chain lube, top bottom and sides immediately before a ride.

Half way lunch stop it gets another spray from small refillable can.

After ride the bike is jet washed and the chain gets a direct, top, bottom, sides wash as do the chain guides and runners.

Then WD40 spray on full length..

Then left while bike gets oil and filters change.

Then before bike is put away it gets another full chain lube spray including runner.

I will first set up the chain so both front and rear sprockets are properly aligned.

I don't use the swing arm markings for wheel adjustment as after any moderate "off" they are out..

I use a straight edge metal ruler. I roughly set the tension then chain taken off.

Then with the ruler edge flat against the side of the rear sprocket I adjust the rear wheel so it's also flat against the side of the front sprocket.

This is the trick that will increase chain life by reducing wear on your sprockets and chain.

I have drilled a visible dimple on one face of the chain/wheel adjustment bolt so it can be seen. I tried paint pen first but it just wears off.

I have also cut a slot with a hack saw that can also be seen on the oppersite face to the dimple.

These physical marks are east to see, simple to adjust to and ideal for an on trail adjustment on a muddy bike.

Once aligned with the steel straight edge ruler between the front and rear sprockets so each adjustment bolt is facing directly out you then have a very accurate datum to adjust from.

Chain back on and adjusted until correct cleaned and lubed tension by turning the adjustment bolt one turn at a time each side keeping the alignment accurate between the sprockets..

If half turn needed then ajust to the cut slots on last turn.

Out on a run adjusting to the full turn(dimple to dimple) or half turn ( dimple to slot or slot to dimple) is very easy, quick and very accurate.


I use split links of the same make as the chain.
I will order two extra spare links with each new chain and carry a spare with me.

Note..it's very difficult fitting a new link on the trail if you don't have a chain splitter with you so I will pre assemble the split links and if they are too tight for finger fitting I will gently widen the plate holes with a round rat file until they are just finger tight then CLEAN OFF ANY SWARF.. And lube up ...trust me it will save bloody fingers and rock bashed swing arms.

I always pre lube spare links and keep in small plastic bags in tool roll.

I will check the split pin spring clips when I wash the chain as they become very warn and FINGER CUTTING RAZOR SHARP when they wear down, caused by mud acting as grinding paste around front sprocket/ chain guide..

I will usually poke the mud out with a twig at on trail stops if it doesn't fall out and builds up..

Another cause of premature wear is the lower chain guide being knocked out of alignment so the outside edge together with mud, rubs the split link as it passes through as the split link is always slightly proud of the other links and is the one that hits the built up mud first clearing the gap for the following shallower link rivet ends..

This chain adjustment and maintenance will make the x ring chain last for at least two rear and two to three front sprockets and to the end of life for the third split link.

I then retire the chain to the spare and throw away the previous spare.

Other than that I check the chain rollers and replace immediately if any have developed a hole or don't turn freely.

Chains usually last me 18-24 months and I order a new one on replacement so keep a spare..with both the 250 and 525 being 2005 year the running parts on both bikes are the same.

Does it work? 14000 miles on the current 250 (17000 on the previous 250) and coming up to 35000 miles on the well used and hard ridden 525 with no chain related issues..it seems to

On the 525 I've not had the usual drive shaft sprocket oil leak either.
I use OE KTM steel front and steel or alloy rear sprockets.
Chains/split links/sprockets next day mail order from Trevor Pope Mcy Gosport.

The only issue I've had with wheels/sprockets/chains are loose rear wheel sprocket bolts after a change of rear sprocket at the 2,000 mile stage if I re used the old bolts/nuts. Cured if a drop of blue lock tight on each bolt used.

Also when/if you take the rear wheel adjustment bolts out to drill the dimple/cut the slot put copper slip on the lost in swing arm bolt section as they can rust in.
I replaced those on both bikes because of this and have a spare set at home.

I also keep a quality perfectly fitting spanner for the adjustment bolt and lock nut and only ever just past one finger tightness ...

Or.... Buy an EK ORING chain for £30, then next year buy another one... Jet wash..wd40... And ignore... Works for me.Soft links do not seem to break like spring links do.

@ANDY - useful information thanks - what indicator do you use to tell you that it's time to replace the chain?

@Joel - where can I buy these £30 EK O-ring chains?

thanks

hunters motorcycles in Newcastle, free delivery.. I get JT SPROCKETS,and on EK oring chain for £60... Never had any issues with them... And EK ( as I said countless times) invented the oring chain ! Japs innit...

Just bought a used bike with a red (argghh) unnamed chain, supposed to new according to the seller

I changed the sprockets, this week and was going to use it, however for the sake of £60 I've ordered a new DID as the red chain is probably a cheap £30 ebay chain and will be as much use as tissue paper to wash a dirty bike